Continuing on with the detailed discussion on each of the nine points of saddle fit — this week we will examine specifically that part of the saddle which is closest to your horse — the panel.
Then, with the tips of your fingers, gently palpate downward towards the ground. You will first feel bone the transverse processes of the lumbar vertebrae , then a slight rigidity the supraspinal ligament , and finally, an area where there is a bit more give.
This is his back muscle or longissimus dorsi muscle. It is very important that the width of the gullet be the same throughout the entire length of the saddle. Too often we see saddles with gullets that are the appropriate width at the front, but then get progressively narrow towards the back.
The result is a saddle that has a finger gullet under the pommel, but only fingers at the cantle or less. In order to ensure adequate spinal clearance all the way down, neither should the gullet of his saddle. It is only infrequently that we find a saddle that is too wide through the gullet for a particular horse. I got a Wintec Pro Stock saddle this summer, with the wide gullet inserted. I thought it was fine till his winter coat came in.
He has a strip of white hairs on either side of his spine, probably an inch out. The gullet of the saddle is wide, so what can be amiss here? Two things spring to mind: First, the tree shape might not be right for your horse. The white hairs indicate that there is pressure alongside his spine. Second, the tree might still not be wide enough. While the Wintec interchangeable gullets do give you more width in the angle of the tree at the front of the saddle, they do not change the width of the gullet down the length of the saddle.
Hi Lynn, You raise an interesting point. A 32 cm tree in a Stubben, for example, fits wider than a 32 cm tree in a Prestige ask me how I know that! After that you have to take into consideration whether a saddle is made to fit a flat back or a curvy one! Trying a specific model saddle on your horse can be very helpful. When I bought my Roosli dressage saddle, I was able to try one on my horse and determine that he needed a wide tree — I never would have thought to order one because in other brands he was a medium wide.
Hi there! I came across your post Googling about how to determine what size saddle you have based on the measurements. I got more than I was hoping to learn with your post! So fabulous that I was hoping that you might have some insight to help me figure out some issues I have been having with my half Arabian.
I was riding him in a Crosby He was back sore after a 3 day show over a year ago and thus started my quest for finding the right saddle. All yield the same result. At one point, he started to get little white hairs growing where the dry spots show up. No, there was never any rubbing where there was hair loss or sores. Just the dry spots. I have had out a chiropractor to check.
So I am at a loss…Any suggestions? Too much pressure on the dry spot areas. I had this with my horse. It became apparent that his back had dropped. A Skito pad with bridging insert solved the problem for me. A Port Lewis pad test showed up the problem for sure. I am trying to sell my saddle and a potential buyer is needing a medium wide gullet. Can you tell me what brand saddle it is? It may be marked somewhere on the flap or stirrup bars.
I have been one of the confused ones. Those actually ONLY change the width and angle at the withers. Tree size is the distance measured between the bottom points of the tree points. As you can see here, the width of the gullet can vary tremendously. The saddle to the left is an old Hermes close contact saddle.
On the right is a County Extreme jumping saddle In fact, there are saddles where the gullet becomes very narrow indeed. The panels rest evenly on his back. In addition, the saddle is sitting crooked which can cause a horse to exhibit lameness. Share this: Share Twitter Facebook Email.
Like this: Like Loading Virtual Windsor Starts Tomorrow. Measure straight down from the center of the stirrup bar to the bottom of the saddle flap to determine flap length. Lay the saddle upside down on a towel so that the cantle is touching the floor and the bottom of the saddle is exposed. The strip of unpadded leather running down the center of your saddle is called the gullet. On either side of the gullet you will find the panels of your saddle.
On the front of each panel there are four felt dots. Measure the distance between the two felt dots closest to the gullet. Take a measuring tape and run it along your thigh bone, measuring from the end of your knee to the backside of your buttocks.
Gullet Measurement A saddle with full quarter horse bars will typically measure 7 inches across the gullet. Under Between Between 20 and The gullet is the tunnel underneath the fork and rides over the horse's withers. The design of the fork and the angle of the bars of the saddle tree determine the width and height of the gullet.
Position the saddle correctly on your horse's back. Don't use a saddle pad because you want to see how the saddle sits directly on your horse. Place the saddle slightly forward on your horse's withers, then slide it backward so that it stops at the natural resting place as dictated by his conformation.
Arabian : Have a narrow front usually 6. So the saddle goes from a little narrow in the front to flatter or wider in the back. Can sometimes fit non- Arabian horses. Tree : the base on which the rest of the saddle is built - usually based on wood or a similar synthetic material. The saddler eventually covers it with leather or with a leather-like synthetic.
The tree's size determines its fit on the horse's back, as well as the size of the seat for the rider. The saddle swell or fork or, if you're English, pommel is the part of the saddle that holds together the bars of the tree.
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