SundayFunday Active member. Joined Oct 28, Messages 36 Location Mn. Cool video and great results. As for her mods to the "rafters", she also took out all of the webs Red arrows in picture which could cause problems down the road.
Although she was in California and probably doesn't have to deal with snow loads, I'd be concerned about the missing webs without knowing how it would affect the structure. JPG Last edited: Mar 5, Kaizen Well-known member. All great info above. Op this is not something you should play with. Any support removed has to be replaced. Post soMe pics of your situation specifically the gable, ridge, and existing beams.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Norcal Well-known member. Joined Mar 16, Messages 10, LX-Markham Well-known member. No to installing plywood and using the roof framing to support additional storage. Yes to consulting a qualified structural engineer. OK, I'm back, I apologize I did not update this sooner. I have a bathroom reno going right now and had to demo the walls for drywall Saturday and Sunday was a blur. SO, this leaves me with the assumption that I'm SOL as far as "opening" up the rafters for more room and better lighting.
I'm thinking I have three routes I can go Route 1: Build a new shop away from the house and use it for my projects. Least appealing as I would have to remove part of my permanent crop field blueberries and the place I would choose has the best bushes currently. Route 2: "Jack up" the roof and build structural spacers to raise the roof literally up another ' to get a 12'' sidewall at the lowest point in my garage.
I don't know how this would be done aside from detaching the roof area using a huge crane, building a "spacer" of 2x4s at the proper height, then lowering the roof down essentially framing a 4'-8' tall new wall all the way around.
Any ideas on this [crazy] idea? Route 3: Demo the garage, level the slab, pour more concrete out back north side and to the right east side garage is attached to the house, and lies North-South-East-West and just build a new structure more or less from the ground up.
I could reuse lots of the wood and keep some of the walls as they are perhaps. Not sure, not even sure what kind of budget that would require. Pretty sure before any of those routes are taken, my wife will want new carpet, flooring in the kitchen, a nursery made, etc Last edited: Mar 9, Use what you have and get the list caught up. Ask Question. Asked 1 year, 7 months ago. Active 1 year, 7 months ago. Viewed 2k times. Improve this question. Rock Rock 21 3 3 bronze badges. You want to remove the bracing going front to back or side to side?
The side to side braces are holding the walls together and keeping the roof up. It's not clear if you're wanting to remove the brace, or use the brace as a floor joist for your loft. Either way, I'd recommend against it — cutrightjm. Front to back and side to side — Rock. Sure, if you want the roof to fall down likely with the walls falling out. If you'd like it to remain a building rather than become a pile of debris, leave them alone. Ecnerwal - likely that it collapses to a side.
I am not doubting you but I live in an area that allows 2x2 framing - the land of tornadoes and low building code requirements. Buildings usually just fold to one side. Would love to see a picture of something with both side walls falling out though - that would just look cool.
Show 5 more comments. Active Oldest Votes. You will not want to remove any of the rafter ties as you called cross brace. Improve this answer. Add a comment. No no no. Here is what will happen: You take brace off. The two 2x8 fall down. Where ceiling joists are not connected to the rafters at the top wall plate, joists connected higher in the attic shall be installed as rafter ties, or a continuous tie should be provided.
Where ceiling joists are not parallel to rafters, rafter ties shall be installed. Where ceiling joists or rafter ties are not provided, the ridge formed by these rafters must be supported by a wall or girder. The ends of ceiling joists should be lapped a minimum of 3 inches, or butted over bearing partitions or beams and toenailed to the bearing member. Where ceiling joists are used to provide resistance to rafter thrust, lapped joists shall be nailed together in accordance with Table R For example, if a house has a slope, the rafters are on inch centers, the snow load is 30 psf, and the roof span is 28 feet, you need eight 16d common nails or 40d box nails at each rafter-heel joint connection.
That's a lot of nails a home inspector can look for. Cathedral ceilings are popular in many homes, but they have special issues with the downward load on the rafters that push outward on the exterior walls. Open collar ties and ridge beams address many of these issues. The higher the tie is located, the less leverage is available to counteract the outward-thrust forces. Many cathedral ceilings often display indications of movement, such as cracked drywall.
The most effective way to reduce outward thrust is to use a structural ridge beam. In a conventional roof truss, the bottom chord acts as a tension tie between the exterior walls. Alterations to installed trusses are not permitted. Cutting any truss, particularly at the bottom chord, destroys the structural integrity of the truss. The bottom chord of a truss should not be attached to an interior wall partition. Attaching the bottom chord of a truss to an inside wall can cause the web members designed for tension to become compression members.
When the bottom chord is nailed to a top plate of an interior wall, a home inspector might observe cracking interior finishes at the corner of the finished wall and ceiling. Older building codes permitted rafter ties to be installed very high above the top wall plate, as much as two-thirds the distance between the top plate and the ridge.
The IRC now limits this to one-third the distance between the plate and the ridge. For example, if an unfinished garage has a roof with a slope and the roof span is 24 feet, the rafter ties should be located no more than 16 inches up from the plate, according to modern building standards.
The roof framing mock-up below shows a standard collar tie. As the load is applied downward, tension in the collar tie is increased. The illustration below shows a king post truss on posts. As the load is applied downward, compression is increased at the posts.
A bending moment occurs when a force changes from a straight form into a curved or angular one. The illustration below shows a collar tie with rafters on top of conventionally framed walls.
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