Since more insulation and less lumber is used, and since insulation has a higher R-value than lumber, increasing stud spacing increases the overall R-value of the wall system.
Limitations: Floor decking, wall cladding, roof sheathing and interior finish material such as gypsum wall board need to be sized to span the added dimension without undesirable deflection. If floor joists are chosen that have wide flanges, this will reduce the clear span of the floor decking. Material fastening schedules and sheathing thicknesses become more stringent when wider spans are employed, which may affect quantities, installation time, and cost of accessories.
Some manufacturers do not make insulation batts for Therefore, using this spacing in an insulated wall assembly may require changing type or brand of insulation. In some markets, there is a perception that wide-spaced framing is a mark of inferior construction. Attention to all of the details of assembly, including fastening and bracing schedules, will assure that the system performs well.
Designs in high-wind zones or with tall walls may not allow 24 inch on-center spacing. Details : Single top plates are typically incorporated with advanced framing designs that include 24" on center framing. By stacking the wall and roof framing, it is possible to use a single top plate because the top plate merely transfers compressive vertical loads to the stud below.
Steel plates or straps are used to maintain continuity of the plate in the absence of a second, overlapping plate. Installation: Temporary bracing is needed to steady and plumb newly erected walls. As with all light frame structures, temporary bracing should be left in place until the floor and, or roof is completed to permanently brace the structure. Because one plate is omitted, the amount of wall insulation is increased, slightly improving energy performance. Limitations: May not work on homes in high-wind or earthquake zones.
Requires purchasing a longer stud. Details : Any non-bearing partition can be built with a single top plate. Installation: Bracing is needed to steady and plumb recently erected walls.
This bracing should be left in place until the floor or roof above the walls is completed, tying the structure together. In a 2, sq. He also stressed the issues of gapping detailed and recommended caulking the gaps and covering them with good quality alkali backerboard tape NOT sheetrock mesh tape! That's what he does however it's not all in TCA handbook some is his own successful technique so I doubt I can get my contractor to do all of this, if any.
An additional concern Bill Vincent shared was regarding consistancy of thinset as possibly being too stiff based on description I gave of one tile being removed.
He was incredibly helpful! Now I was hoping I could get a few more intallers opinions to support my concerns. We're also considering a personal investment in bringing a TCA inspector to the site. It's very spendy as we live in a rural area in the midwest but may be well worth it to have help actually standing here!!
As you point out it is amazing that the contractor keeps returning but at this point, my theory is he just wants to put off the inevitable. He appeases me by checking in and throwing out his latest conclusion. Reputation may be motivating him to keep us calm BUT after the 5 year mark I turned from passive to possessed! This needs to STOP, now! Ooh, I sound so scary!
Anyway, as usual, I've written a book. Thanks for reading it and for your advice. I really DO appreciate it SO much! You're very kind and helpful! I really think my next step would be to ask the builder to please provide you a copy of whatever standards he is relying upon for his claim that his installation method in this case is acceptable.
It's a fair question and it may even cause him to reconsider his position a little. Couldn't hurt. Thanks, We'll try that again. I can't tell you how many times we've asked but not been given the details. He just never comes through with it. Has brought in 4 "experts" from tile businesses and when he doesn't like what they say ie: you need to take this out and investigate or they're all going to fall out eventually he calls them idiots!
It's this kind of problem that has brought me here after sitting around for five years. Maybe being more active and informed will cause that reconsideration on his part to happen. I sure hope so. Thanks again. It's helpful to have a homebuilder's perspective! Signing off, Cam. He may have used the wrong thinset.
He sounds like he did not trowel it on correctly either. By that I mean that it doesn't sound like he keyed or "burned" the thinset to the plywood.
If he used a cheap modified or non modified thinset you will have the problems you mentioned. His desire to use a higher quality modified thinset probably means he knows he cut a corner by using cheaper thinset and that it is probably the main cause of the failure. You have to give him some credit as he keeps coming back. Good thing he is your neighbor. Last edited by stullis; at PM. Oh no, Stullis! The install was done correctly.
It really was it's all a fluke latest contractor supplied theory. I rolled my eyes at this can't control myself any longer This is funny. You're in Sauk Centre and we're about an hour from you. This way, the joists get to dry out first, because if the joists shrink, the metal bridging will loosen. This is not a consideration, by the way, when using engineered I-joists. They can be bridged immediately. On the walls, we always frame 16 inches on center, which makes them stiffer and stronger.
How the corners are put together—both inside and out—is very important. A minimum of three studs are needed. Any hard-to-reach pockets we create while framing we insulate then and there, preventing hot and cold spots and the moisture that will form in such spaces if they're not insulated correctly. Avoiding that moisture means avoiding mold, mildew, rot, peeling paint and insects.
Carpenter ants love wet places. We use penny nails when nailing into the end grain on the top and bottom of the wall and into headers, penny or toed penny nails when making up jack studs and headers. And we're not stingy with the nails—we use plenty. Walls over eight feet tall require a row of horizontal blocking. We use diagonal braces in corners or glue the sheathing to the studs on all outside corners. We leave an 8-penny-nail's-width spacing on all four edges of our wall sheathing, which allows it to expand and contract without buckling.
When going from one level of floor to the next, we make sure the sheathing spans the rim or band joist. We never install a strip there—it would be useless. If need be, we start with a narrower strip on the first floor. When stick-framing the roof structure, we build 16 inches on center. For trusses, I like 16 or The joist is designed to resist compression at the top and expansion at the bottom.
Maximise available space and minimize deviations in your ducts, plumbing, and electrical runs by lining up the webbing. Simply choose the straitest plane between your outside wall or interior beam and install the non-adjustable end joist on it.
Adjust the other end accordingly.
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